Doddahotrangappa Hills: The Misty Beauty!

"Ardha kilometer seedha hogi…"- Words of a septuagenarian fell into my ears as I left my seat to get down from the bus. I just swayed my right hand and thanked him. What I could understand from his Kannada words was - the village is at half a kilometer in the straight direction. After getting down, I looked around and had a feel of the weather. It was a pleasant cloudy Sunday morning with birds chirping around. Time was 7:20am. I saw the word Lokadalalu vaguely inscribed on a dilapidated cement slate standing beside the road connecting Holalkere to Hosadurga. Holalkere is a taluka in Karnataka, around 35kms from Chitradurga.

 

I looked ahead on the road leading to the village and my excitement went high. My sight went through a slightly curvy and empty road and ended at misty hills. May be the end point was the Doddahotrangappa Hills, having this thought I started walking ahead. The fresh and clean village air pumped my lungs and with doubled energy I progressed fast towards the hill. A walk of around 5 minutes on a road surrounded by areca nuts plantation and I met an old man with his herd of few cattle. He gave a suspicious look as I stopped in front of him and asked a 2 words question - "Uncle! Ranganathaswamy Temple?" He replied with few sentences in Kannada from which I couldn't get anything. I gathered all my Kannada speaking skill and shaped that into two words, "Kannada Illa". Now there was a silence for few seconds and it was broken with his question which I vaguely but correctly understood. His question was from where I belong to. "Bihar" - as I answered; it brought a sudden change of expression on his old wrinkled face. Now the suspicion was replaced by surprise as it was evident with his broadened eyes. Once more I tried my best to form a Kannada sentence which resulted into- "Ranganathaswamy temple esto door?" My sentence brought a sudden smile on his face and with a big grin he answered me to walk ahead on the road.

After few minutes of walk I saw the first house of the village. It was early morning and people were busy with their households. I stopped by a small in-house shop. Owner was busy praying with incense stick in his hands. I repeated the same two word question, “Ranganathaswamy Temple?” The guy stopped his prayer and promptly came out and showed me the direction. Since there were two turns further and I had to take the second one, he waited till I reached the right turn. Since I didn’t want to shout and thank him, just showed him thumbs up and bowed head to thank him.

Lokadalalu is a small typical Indian village with around 60-70 closely located houses and few shops. These shops are just to serve snacks, beverages and few very basic needs of the household and for anything else they need to reach to the nearest town of Holalkere and Hosadurga. In 5 minutes of fast walk I crossed the residential area of the village and now open fields started. I moved little further and to my right saw a lake and few birds trying to grab their breakfast. I descended from the road and walked slowly towards the lake to get few shots of the hill and its reflection in the lake. The water in the lake was muddy and the reflection of the hill was not clear in it. Also the movement of the water because of the wind was making the reflection hazy. I kneeled down fixing my left knee to the ground and took several shots. Suddenly a shout of “Anna Anna!” broke my concentration and I looked to my left. A boy aged around 7-8 years was running towards me. I too was done with my snaps and walked towards the road from where he was also coming. Without taking a breath he asked me several things of which I couldn’t get anything. I told him, “Kannada gotilla”. He gave a smile and continued speaking. I broke his continuation and asked “Ranganathaswamy Temple?” He showed me the direction with a smile that I captured in my camera.

 

 

Moving ahead, after few minutes of walk the path got forked and I was in confusion to take left or right. On the right path which was made of red clay, there were deep wheel marks of four wheeler vehicles and it made me sure of the right one. I walked on the red clay road with jungle shrubs on both the side for few more minutes and now the Hills partially covered with the mist were quite in view. With a thought to take a long exposure shot. I descended to the right of the clay road just to avoid the electricity wires in my shot. Flanking the tripod legs I fixed the camera over it. While I was taking shots, a man who was passing by on his bike stopped and keenly watched my act. After finishing my shot I moved up to the road and heard him speaking something in Kannada. I expressed my inability to understand the Kannada. He tried to speak few words in Hindi and wanted to know why I am going to Ranganathaswamy Temple. I expressed my interest for travel, trekking & photograph and then he moved on. 

I packed my tripod back into the cover and walked on. By now I was walking for last one hour and my throat was getting dry. Now I realized the biggest mistake of trekking. Can you guess.....? I was not having any water with me. But still I had the energy to walk on in the hope to meet someone with water or some water source.

After 30 minute of more walk on tar and clay road, the ascent started getting steeper and it started drizzling. My energy meter was getting down with each step. Then an idea came in my mind to save some of my remaining energy. I looked around and found a dried small tree. I broke its stem and made my walking stick. This was the time drizzling converted in full fledged rain. But nothing to worry for me as I was full prepared. Putting on the rain cover I moved ahead with my supporting stick. I got great assistance from the stick and trekked step after step. Because of rain mist and fog were generated around and hills were looking even more beautiful. The view made me to forget my thirst for some time. I dared to unzip my rain cover to take out the camera in rain and quickly took few snaps and zip it back.

With the increased mist and fog around, I saw a just passed by bike taking a sharp turn a quarter kilometer ahead. After walking till that point and taking the turn there was a pleasant surprise for me. Two water tanks painted white and blue were visible. In hope to get some water I walked ahead till the tank and saw two small temporary shops covered with tarpaulin few more yards ahead. The area onwards was flatter. I walked to the shop which was selling water, cool drink and some snacks. I just grabbed a water bottle there and slowly poured it into my throat. I took out a chocolate from my rain cover pocket and finished it quickly to get some energy. Now the time was 9:10 am and I was feeling hungry. I asked for idly in the shop which was not available. The guy offered me Mirchi Manddaki. I was not sure what was it and asked him to show me the dish. It was made of Churmuri (roasted rice, also called Mudhi in north India). Manddaki is generally served with Mirchi Bhajji and hence called Mirchi Mandakki. Slowly I finished the breakfast thinking about the further trek. I paid for the breakfast and asked them whether I could take their snap. They were happily agreed. Flash was fired and I took a snap which didn’t come properly because of the wrong camera settings. I informed them and tried to take another shot. But this time the trigger was not getting clicked even though I tried for few times. I looked at the camera screen and then at their faces. They looked more worried than me. I saw the warning on the screen which said memory card was over. I took out the full memory card and inserted an empty one. While changing the card I could see the feeling of relief on their faces as they chattered something in Kannada regarding the memory card. Took few snaps and before I ask them the further way, one of the guys explained me the way in Kannada which I understood partially. 

 

Now rain stopped and I was recharged for further trek. A Kannada couple who was waiting for the rain to stop also started to the temple. I just followed them. After few minutes of trek I saw an arch and zigzag stairs made of irregular stones. It seemed to be the final ascent to the temple. It was the time again rain started. I moved up to the arch to which few bells were hanging. Rain drops on the bells had made it beautiful and I couldn’t resist myself from taking out the camera in rain again and took few snaps. While taking snaps the couple moved ahead and now was out of the sight. As there was no diversion in the path there, I moved up ahead without any confusion.

 

With continuous rain stones were getting slippery and it became very difficult to trek over those irregular stairs made of cut stones. Here my stick was very helpful and supported well. After around 15 minutes of ascent I saw the couple waiting under a shelter for the rain to stop. With the stiff climb my heart and face were pumping high and I too thought to have a halt for some time. None of them knew Hindi or English and they asked me in Kannada to remove my shoes and ascent further. I wanted to ask them how much ascent is remaining but could not convey my message properly to them.

 

My companions

Intensity of the rain was lowered by now and they decided to ascent further. The guy had a look at me as if asking are you coming along with us. I thought to have a rest of few more minutes before trekking further and indicated them to proceed. After taking rest for 5 more minutes I continued the climb to the temple. Walking with bare feet added to the difficulty for small stones and pebbles were pricking hard into the sole. After 25 minutes of more rough & tough ascent now the white and green dome of Ranganathaswamy temple was visible. It was the moment of great relief. Few more steps and I reached the entrance. Ringing the large bell hanging at the entrance I entered into the small premise.

Looking around it was quite a picturesque view from the temple. Under the light rain, I could see everything that I crossed and reached to this point. A sudden smile on my face and I had a feel of achievement. I walked few steps and it was the door to the temple where the flower decorated deity was present. I put down my rain covered backpack, tripod and stick near the door and stood to calm down my lungs which were pumping fast with super fresh air. “Come………” - I heard someone’s voice from inside. I looked inside and just showed my right hand to convey that Yeah! I am coming. May be they could not get my message right. Same voice I heard once more and after few seconds a guy came out to check whether I am having any problem. I went inside. The room was lit by the oil deeps. Under that light I saw the flower decorated deity surrounded by the rocks of the hill. I sat near the door to get the fresh air supply as I was breathing fast because of my recent climb.

Priest and his son did a fresh aarti. The intense sound of the hand-bell echoed inside the room. The sound of the bell was very soothing and made me to close my eyes. With closed eyes I tried to concentrate and control my breath. Soon my concentration was broken as someone touched me and I opened my eyes. A lady indicated me to go and get the aarti. I stood up and walked briskly near to the lord. Folded my hands in respect and took the aarti. Now priest asked me something in Kannada. I conveyed my inability to understand Kannada and told that I could speak Hindi and English. A guy who could speak broken English came to my rescue and asked about me. “My name is Sumit. I am from Bihar and work in Bangalore.”- I spoke slowly so that people can get my words. For a minute there was chatter in Kannada among the people around and they looked surprised. “Why come here?” - was the next question. Keeping my speech rate slow I replied - “I like to see new places, nature, trekking and photography. I saw this place on internet and liked it. I asked my friend from Chitradurga about this place. Yesterday I visited Chitradurga and today came to visit Ranganathaswamy temple. Tonight I will return to Bangalore.” Then I showed them the Doddahotrangappa Hills on the Karnataka Tourism android application and also whatsApp chat with my colleague Ravi on how to reach here. The guy conveyed all the information to the people around in Kannada and now there was a smile on everyone’s face. 

 

Name of the guy was Maruthi and he was a marriage and portraits photographer. I gently asked permission to take a snap of the main deity and priest was happily agreed. After taking the shot, I asked if everyone is fine for a group photo. I was permitted for that too. I put the camera on the tripod to make sure that I too come in the group photo. After photo session I came out of the temple and started taking few landscape shots. Maruthi standing behind me told that he could take few snaps of me. Generally I do not hand over my love (Nikon D5100) into other hands, knowing that he operates a Nikon D90 I handed over my camera to him. While he was taking my portraits Panditjee (the priest) came out holding a tender coconut for me. Highly obliged I accepted that and uttered, “Dhanyawad!”, and there was exchange of smile between us.

 

Before I finish my tender coconut, Panditjee brought prasadam for everyone. It was being served on banana leaf. Prasadam was made of plain rice and was tasteless. I finished it with the help of coconut water and now my stomach was full. Maruthi and his friend, Tippesh were about to descend to the village and asked me to join them. I asked them to wait for 10 more minutes so that I can get some good nature shots. 

 

View from the temple

Tippesh and Maruthi

Now it was time to leave the place and Panditjee brought a pomegranate for me. I politely told him with my gesture that my stomach is filled and couldn’t take it. He gently uttered few words in Kannada which was translated by Maruthi as - “Eat it while you are returning to Bangalore tonight.” With due respect, I accepted it and went inside the temple. Now son of the Panditjee was holding the brass aarti plate. I took the aarti one more time and put some money in the plate. After coming out of the temple, with folded hand I wished Panditjee a Good Bye, which he replied exactly in the same manner.

I was about to take the first step for my descent and son of the Panditjee came running. He told something in Kannada which made Maruthi and Tippesh laugh. He wanted to know my name. I said in broken Kannada, “Naanu hesra Sumit ede. Ninu hesro?”. “Sachin”, a reply came from him. “Sachin Tendulkara?” - I asked and everyone laughed.

 

Priest's son, Sachin

Slowly and carefully I stepped down with help of my precious stick. Maruthi and Tippesh were ahead of me. Chatting and gossiping with them I reached to the flat area where I had water and breakfast while ascending. It took around 40 minutes to reach here from the temple. They offered me to join them on bike till the main road and I happily accepted that. While going to the village we met two old ladies and Maruthi gave prasadam to them. I too gave them half a Dairy Milk each and took a photo of them.

 

 

On the way we talked about Kannada songs and movie actors. Being a music lover and an amateur singer, I knew few Kannada songs. When they asked me to sing, I sang few lines of a Kannada song and they were impressed. Soon we crossed the village and reached to the main road. I sincerely thanked them, noted their contact numbers and wished to meet them again in future.

It was a frustrating wait of half an hour to get the bus back to Holalkere. Standing in the crowded bus every event since morning flashed in my mind. With solo travel, which very few opt for, I was learning to read people’s faces better. I felt that not knowing a language is difficulty but never a barrier in communication. This travel was an encouragement for my solo travel.

Useful information (for visiting Doddahotrangappa Hills and temple)
How to reach Chitradurga -> Holalkere -> Lokadalalu
By Bus	From Chitradurga get a bus towards Holalkere. Get down at Holalkere and walk for 100 meters to Holalkere bus stand. Wait at the roadside opposite to the bus stand. You will get private buses for Hosadurga. Get down at Lokadalalu village stop and follow my travelogue to reach destination.
Own Vehicle	Drive from Chitradurga to Holalkere. Reach Holalkere and take a left turn to join Holalkere to Hosadurga road. Drive around 6 kilometers and take a left turn towards Lokadalalu (on Google Map name is given as Lokadolalu) village. Drive for around 4 kilometers through the village and open fields and reach to the open flatter place where I had my breakfast. Park your vehicle here and start your ascent.
Do not forget to keep water and eatables with you. The temporary shops will be there only from Saturday morning till Sunday 9:00am.